SOUTH AMERICA
Paul Worakul คุณพันธุ์
Patagonia Adventure
Pictures and stories by A Suave Traveler
Patagonia [English]
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Here I come
The bags were out, the doggies were not amused. Peek knew something was up because she had been through the ordeal when I left to Thailand last year. Pepe was much more forgiving, but stuck around for every minute that he can. After kissing good bye with my doggies, I took a long flight from San Francisco to Buenos Aires. It was alright after many glasses of wine at the lounge. Made my way to the hostel at 1 PM. Exhausted, went out to eat…of course not meat but cerdo (pork). The difficulty was, my Spanish hadn’t come back yet. But not a problem, many young people here are speak English. So I just use my charm with goofy smile and broken Spanish to make sure that they know what I want. It worked like a charm. They all are helpful.
The place that I stayed was like a dorm for college students. They are mostly Chilean and Uruguayan. Since in this part of the world they eat dinner late and love to party late at night, I am in the deepest fun here. The first night was some girl birthday party. That lasted until the fight broke up at was around 4 AM. Said to myself what…da…heck 4 hours difference in time zones so I try to find out the story who’s doing what, to whom and how. That got a lot of attention and the fun continued. I was partying with those students until 7 AM. So many faces, names and vino tinto, I can’t remember a thing. Yes not yet sleeping, but one by one, los ninos started disappearing. The last person Eric, Physics student excused himself to go to bed. Now left me with the night shift reception guy. I was practicing my Spanish with him until 9:30 AM that when his shift changed and he has to go home. So I went to bed too.
It was a right idea to chill out for a few day before I begin my journal. The sad part was the party had begun every night around 8 PM. They are as consistent as my doggies that attention is needed when the time to take them for a walk. Every day at 5 PM no matter rain or shine, day light saving time or not. They seem to know the time. The cold nose from Pepe will touch my leg. If I ignore, Peek will use her paw to scratch me. I still try to figure it out how they are known that was 5 PM, the walking time!
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Charming Colonia, Uruguay
After exhausted from party with those ninyos, my Spanish start to come back. I was ready to make a move. To go to Uruguay I must take ferry across the muddy water to Colonia. Tried to buy the ferry ticket on line it was not successful. The computer grid that only want you to buy round-trip ticket. After asked may people they say just go there. It’s always will be a seat for you. So I followed their advice. Uruguay here I come. Packed my giant suitcase that I ever travel with in my life because the hot and cold climate and I made my move. Took 10 minutes taxi to peer. Go straight to the Buquebus ticket counter. First I was confused because I am going to take a ferry not a bus, then a lovely lady explain to me that they service the bus to Montevideo too. The dilemma began I have to use Thai passport to get out of Argentina and get in Uruguay with USA passport. The reason was Argentina have a rebellious against US traveler 2 years ago. Yes American do not need a visa but you have to pay $160 for entering fee. After you pay you can go in and out for 10 years with no fee. Now it proved to me that The USA citizens traveling website was never update their information…Suck. Now the Thai passport need visa for Uruguay, I said to myself screw you, I will be an American when I check in. When I bought the ticket, the lady asked for my Thai passport. A ticket was $72 one way, 1 hour ride and first class only ..ow. They refused to sell me a cheaper ticket she said it’s full. Politely paid for that dam ticket and checked the luggage then flown to the security and heading to the immigration boots. The moment of the true, the Argentinian and Uruguayan were in the same boot, same desk and sat right next to each other. So I handed my 2 passports to a cute Argentinian officer, explained to her that I want to stamp out with Thai passport and stamp in for Uruguay with my American passport. She looked at me and smiled and burst out laughing because she couldn’t pronounced my name. I smiled and said tough ah… So she took my picture and thumb scanning. Then stamped me out and automatically handed those passports to the Uruguayan. I moved to his window and asked for my Thai passport back, so he looked through my Thai passport and tried to pronounce my name. Both of them were laughing. So I made a move by said Thai word to them and did my goofy smile. That was clear out the fun. He said you need a visa. Again I reminded him that I am entering Uruguay with USA passport and asked for my Thai passport back. So he handed back my Thai passport. Then more fun continued. The ticket that I bought need to be in American name. So I had to come back down to the ticket boot, there was a long line, so I pulled out my mother Chinese spirit cut in front of the line, pretending nothing happen. I walked right to the boot and told her that I need to put my American name in the ticket. I was surprise she didn’t kick me out, she smiled and serviced me. So back to security and again I cut in front of the line back to the same boot, so he stamped me in. Well shameless and pushy worked for this dilemma.
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Montevideo, Uruguay Styles
Rested and ready, took the early morning bus ride to Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay. It was 3 hours. The country side was not as interesting as Argentina. Took a taxi from bus station to my little hotel was a challenge because of my refugee giant suitcase. Those dam taxis are small the front passenger seat always a pile of book and personal belong to the drivers. They also won’t get off the seat nor open the truck to put my suitcase in. So the dam thing is always ride on the front seat with the driver. My ride was an old car and has no air conditioning all windows had to roll down. The oily old smell mixed with cigarette and smog…oh boy I am in a hog heaven. It reminded me of Bangkok 30 years ago when the air conditioning almost didn’t exist. Notice right away that the smog was flown to my lung and my throat began to dry. The driver was a good sport, he went through small little streets, and passing cars left and right even run the red light. Talked to myself… there you go…you are here for the fun, are you? I kept my mouth shut and said nothing. Fifteen minutes later he had flown me to door step of my hotel. Dragged my belonging out of that dump and paid, gave him a big smile and no tip. He asked for propena. I ignored him, so he left. So I just have to give him my pray…m…er..fuc…er.
Dragged my suitcase up to the second floor, got buzz in with a girly young man with red hair highlighted and red finger nails. His appearance was half punk and half drag queen. He couldn’t fine my reservation. So he put me in a funkiest room. I smiled and said to myself what’s… da fu.. is this, but didn’t want a hassle, so I moved in. Told myself… hum….all I have to do is just pretending I am a rock star on a tour, only one night I could be famous. Dumped my suitcase, jumped in a shower and flown out of that room in a flash.
Walked up and down 18 Ave. Not must to see a few interesting building and lot of shopping stores. There you go that just what need another pair of underwear which all made in China. Walked back to downtown hope to see more interesting thing, but not must luck. Heading to the market that has a food court which has about 20 restaurants in the same building. They all seemed to have the same menu. Charcoal grill with variety of meat, pork and chicken. After circled several rounds, sat myself in fanciest one where the well to do enjoying their food and wine on the counter, sited each other out. If you are a meat eater and can consume a large quantity, you will love this type of services. You just point out what you want to eat, they will ask what’s portion you want. Zipping the wine and talking to the strangers was also fun. I ate the big lunch and paid a big bill. Happy finally found something right. On the way back decided to snoop around. Zigzagging my way back to the central plaza. Found several old building that interesting. Sine I always have to look up, I steeped on a giant dog poop. It came up to the side of my left shoe. Took a good 10 minutes to clean up that mess. Continue my walked, found that more dog poop everywhere. The city has no park and all the side walk are paved and tiled. The dog owners also didn’t pick up dog poop. The street cleaners ignored the poop too. Well I guess, they leave that for the tourist to step on.
The city was not crowded. As per its charm, it is certainly not in my book. The city by the bay with smog and plenty of dog poop for you to step on…How bad can it be!
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Salto to Iguazu Fall
Took 6 hours bus ride from Montevideo to Salto where there are a hot spring and I can cross the border back to Argentina to go to Iguazu Falls. The red eye bus in Uruguay was not as luxury as Argentina buses. The Rio Uruguay bus, seat was uncomfortable even though cama class. Arrived Salto on Sunday morning at 4:30 AM. I went to hang out at the restaurants, oh…boy… I came in with the big surprise. There were those type of ninyos again, drunk and obnoxious. I sat near the service counter and hoped any of those ninyos will bother me. It didn’t take long one of them show up beside me. It perked me up a bit. He said something I not even know what he talk about. I told him to go away cut he insisted to have a talk. Finally the restaurant manager told him to leave. So he went. Five minutes later he shew up in front of me again. I yield out loud…fuera. It worked, everybody turn toward my direction. Two of his friends came and carried him out. That was a bless at 5 Am, I don’t have to kill somebody. That was also save time to go to church for admitting my sin. Now I remembered the first 3 nights in Buenos Aires, the party ninyos were Uruguayan.
Sat and waited until the sun come out then making my move. There was no boat and a few buses to cross the border on Sunday. The hot spring not open until 10 AM. Looked through brochure, it has not convince me to try out. Took $30 taxi ride cross the border. This time there was not a finger print at that border. The officer said I need a visa with Thai passport. I told him I flew in Buenos Aires about a week ago I do not need a visa. So he disappeared with my passport for good 5 minutes. Then back to the desk, stamped and handed back my passport. Said nothing and not even smile. He must be corrected by his superior.
Arrived at the bus terminal about 8 AM. There was no connection bus to Iguazu until 6 PM. Circle around the booth tickets, there were no body around. Had gotten to change the plan. So I have to do the combination bus to get there. Approached the cute lady that where military uniform who works in the immigration office at the border. She was helpful managing all my tickets and what to do. Before she leave, she told the police man to continue assisting me. This small bus station, Concordia, to Posadas which is 4 hours away from Iquazu was not well organize. The lady that sold the ticket to me told me that the bus will live at platform 2. I waited until the time come 9:30 AM still bus didn’t come. Other buses were leaving. The same police man show up and told me that one is your bus, you have to go there. So he helped me with my giant suitcase and got me in the bus. The confusion was the driver had changed platform as his convenience. Almost miss the bus because of my naive. Arrived Iguazu 16 hours later it was 2:30 AM. Walked out to bus station without fear because I know this town is very safe. Got a room half a block from the bus station. There came the worst nightmare, pouring rain. It was cleared up around 8 AM, hopped in the bus heading to the national park again. This time turned out to be a nice day. I continued my walk since I visited 3 years ago. This time got to see how really pretty is. Loved to see the Brazilian side one of this day. These falls were massive and powerful. Hiked down to the ferry across to the center island to see up close. It was a wonderful experience to be in the middle of it, worth the effort. By 4 PM the rain came back and continue to rain to the morning. Check the weather, my worst nightmare is here to stay a few day. Changed the ticket and took 14 hours bus ride to Buenos Aires. Then continue another 8 hours bus to Mendoza, the wine country. I am the king of the bus rider at this point. Who wants to complete?
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Mendoza, The wine country
Arrived around 2 PM. I was expecting to see the atmosphere like Santa Rosa, California… but it wasn’t. The town was flat, no hills, well established and had good infrastructure. All streets have big trees covered the walk ways to help absorbing carbon dioxide. That helped eliminate some of the smog. The weather here is similar to Santa Rosa. The different was there are many pretty parks in this town which was deciding based on the ethnicity: Italian, Spanish, Chilean and so on. Went to two wine tasting places, one was the Bodegas Lopez. It was larger and must more open to the public. Got to see the old real wine barrels that larger than life. They still using them to age the red wine like Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The reserved wine was good the rest was not worth the price. The other own winery was good pretty place to walk around. The wine was good but a bit pricey. So didn’t get a bottle, Sad… there goes my night cap. There were many olive plantations here. Went to one, it was so so, like California better. There were many up-scale shops all over the place. The prices were up there and people were buying them. Amazing with this kind of economy still be those rich one that can afford. Ohm… when will I be one of them, the black bell shopper. For now just stick with my $2 shirt that I got it on sale in Silom, Bangkok, Thailand. Even though it made me look fatter than it is, but still got hitting-on one time too many. Checking out the local market and found this semi 99 ranch (The Chinese supper market that exist only in the South Bay) but this one was Argentinean version. You order first either get it from the display or ready fried fish, squid or mussel. They will fry for you. The prices were similar. Then they gave me an ordered receipt. I went to the cashier and paid. Took the receipt back to the handler, then she gave me my order wrapped in paper. On the other side of the market there were many fast food restaurants that you can order the drink. Knocked myself out with fried fish and wine at 11 AM. Here was my breakfast. Fish of the day and cheap fine wine that was taboo to those Argentinian.
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Crossing the Andes to Santiago, Chile.
After had enough of good wine, it was time to fleet the great Mendoza. Got the 6 hours bus ride crossing the border to Santiago, Chile. Crossing the Andy was one of the most interesting route that I ever took. It was really interesting to see the snow rain and sun at this altitude. It was really pretty. The road itself was even more interesting. It was winding and grady. The altitude change every winding that made. Loved it. Wondered who engineered this. It was a piece of work. Crossing the border was trouble some. I had my prosciuto in my back pack. It was for my back up lunch. The ugly Chileana took it away from me. The bag was open, had been eaten but not pee or spit on. Her attitude was acting tough and tried to show her muscle, who the boss here. All her coworkers looked at her and shook head. I knew then she was exercising her authority. Well, there goes my lunch. Pull out my companion, tinto and peanuts, and drank it a couple of glasses then the world was more civilization.
Arrived Santiago at 3:30 PM. Now the challenge came. The taxi that took me didn’t know the town well, refused to get out the map and I was not about to get rip off. So I asked him to drop me of at the Plaza Almas, the main square. Here I am the refugee with giant suit case dragging along the square. Asked many people no body know where the street was. Found the wifi at the coffee shop. Wiped out my Samsung pad and google it. Then waited for the police to walk by so I can ask them for the direction. Ha… worked, they know exactly where it is. Got the instruction and there I went, it was the edge of the town. Now I am ready for Chilean cuisine.!!
Took the subway back to the main square and wondering my way to the fish market. Bad new the market was close because of the National Holiday. The seafood restaurant that open was the upscale one. Measuring the cost and interest, decided to go with the flow. I sat down and order typical Chilean mariscos dish (buffet of seafood). Two out of 10 varieties were exceptional, the rest was not interesting. They had managed to ruin all the fishy flavors. The pulpo was tough. It was remind me with one of Thai dish call the crying tiger. The beef that was so tough even a tiger can’t tear apart, so it cries. So with my bad teeth and didn’t have powerful jaw, so I swallowed it whole. The crab meat was fried with butter. The first 2 or 3 bites was good, after that it was too buttery have to wash down with water that flood out the fat. That day was a religious holiday there was no alcohol served or sale. This made the food really awful. Asked the waiter to pack for me so I will refreshed at the hostel for my dinner and breakfast for the next day. Still not satisfy with the meal and curious to know Chilean cuisine, I ordered another dish, the Seafood soup. It was a bit better but again they managed to kill all the mariscos flavors. Scooped it up and asked for the bill. It was $125 that included 15% service charge. There you go, the high end high price and a fraction of enjoyment. And so what is about Chilean cuisine, a myth or a tale tell. Next…
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Puerto Montt where the road ended
Santiago was big and expensive for nothing. Took 16 hours bus heading South to Puerto Montt, the Southern frontier where the road can’t go no more. It was a port town that known to have the best seafood, fresh and cheap. The town is small but have all the necessary thing available. The cap of this small town was the seafood market. The host at my hotel told me that today is a beautiful day you should go to Puerto Varas. The place that had a lake and you can see the volcano that had snow cap like the Fuji Mountain in Japan. The bus take 25 minutes and ¢70. It sure is beautiful as the claim to be. Took several pictures and left town because of the rain coming. Heading directly to the fish market where I can find a real seafood to scrod it down. Walked about good 15 minutes from the bus station to the market. Yes it was full of fish and shellfish. Many are precooked and packed like smoked Salmon. But this boy was not interested in that. So I was searching for the restaurant that can serve me a fresh seafood, uncooked. Most of the restaurant served Chilean cooking which was fried or cooked until they were absolutely death and taste less. After snooping through the restaurant windows, still did not seem to see that any one serve the real fresh shellfish. So I settled down to one with an old lady which she claimed her cooking was especial. So I fell into her trap. The food was so so and have no fresh clams or mussels. So I settled down with Sea urchin omelet. She cooked it with onion garlic and cilantro. It quite interesting to eat the Sea urchin this way. Before I finished my dinner, a group of her grand son and a bundle of his friends showed up and brought a whole sack of clams. I asked them for one to taste it. So they gave me two. It was absolute delicious. When I walked out the owner of the restaurant next door told me that we serve all the fresh claim and sea food, you will have them fresh, guarantee. HOLY…crap…had made a wrong move again. I told him I will be back tomorrow.
The next day was rain and rain, I was determent to go back to that restaurant to munch down those clams. After found out that the boat will not leave the dock until Friday, I was disappointed. I can not wait because it takes 4 days and 3 nights on the ferry boat to get to Punta Arena. So the only option I have is to fly. Got the last minutes ticket at the cheap price $199. If I take the boat it will cost me close to $385. Now I can afford to eat more of those mariscos. I show up at the restaurant around 4 PM. He was there and there were no customers at the moment. I was skeptical and not quite sure if this restaurant is as good. He went out to the side of his restaurant where he stored his shellfish. Bring back two plate of claims. Gave them to his worker and sure enough those clams accompany with limon. They were in front of my face in a flash. I scooped them up in no time. Life is short and tomorrow may never come, so I asked for another plate of clams….pig…. Now he said we also have a local oyster too. I gave him biggest smile that can fake, and said to him that I want them too. He smiled back and said I will give you some other fresh shellfish that I have which was not for sale because it was not enough to make a dish. They were small long neck claim, small abalone, giant muscles and shrimp. Well with the good Sauvignon Blanc, I was totally enjoy consuming those animals. They were still moving in my mouth. They were delicioso. Now full and don’t want to pilk, sat there and hung around watching those tourists eating those tasteless sea food from Chilean cooking style. Now the piggy mode had arrived one again when I realized that it was only this night left so I wasn’t to give up the fresh Atlantic sea urchin. Ordered a plate, the piggy was very happy. It was the best. I was amazed myself how the hell I can eat all of these delicioso amimales. The bill was $27.32. Now I was happy like a clam. Didn’t pilk but ended up with a nice glass of wine on the house. Estoy muy bien.
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Punta Arena, the Southernmost of Chile
Took a two hours flight to the Punta Arena was easy. Before I was thinking of staying over night to explore the town. After talked to several travelers they said the same word, nothing there. So after landing I took a small bus from Airport to a small bus terminal. So I have time to walk around because the bus is not leaving for another 4 hours. Walking through the freezing wind and light rain was not my thing. So I ran from one spot to the next taking pictures of those pretty buildings. The police and the sailors were laughing at me. Didn’t care and got on with my dysfunctional life. Found a nice place to kill my time in a decent Italian restaurant. The food was good and the wine selection was the top of the line. Wondered if those sailors have a chance to enjoy them. Conversed with a Chilena, Calina, she was about 5’3″ like me. She was an ice hiker guide. I was impressed that she speaks 3 languages and loves ice. She told me to go see Torres del Paine then cross the border there to El Calafate, Argentina. Then go visit the Perito Moreno Glacier there. I took her advised.
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Puerto Natales to see Torres Del Paine
The bus took 3 1/2 hours from Punta Arena to Puerto Natales. Here I was in the dark and cold and I had no reservation. Calina told me not to worry there will be the Hostel owners there, they will be there to try to get the people to stay with them. Wow, everything she said was accurate. Got a room with an old large lady (5’6″ about 275 lbs., round at a button) located right in front of a seminary. I think one of the ghost from Puerto Montt seminary which I visited had tagged along to see their relative here because everything was so smooth. The old lady was a good sale woman, she managed to sale me a bus ticket, a room, 15% discount coupon to go to eat at her cliental place. She also offered the laundry service and she did it that night. She did them all within less than 10 minutes that I was in contact with her. Two things she didn’t offer was a back rub and a massage. Wow this is the best services that I can’t have in California. Whatever you want, she has them and ready to service you. This is a high level management with economical class of services, I can’t beat that. She also did like the Thais do, serve with smile so you can’t deny the offer!!
The tour to Torres del Paine started at 7 AM, we arrived at the park at 10 AM. Paid $40 entrance fee. It was quite steep for a little guy with little feet. The weather still cold and the win had not died down. The first stop was at a lake about 20 miles from it. Didn’t impress me that much, but the wild lives were entertaining. The guanacos were the best. The large gathering I had ever seen, close to 100 animals in one location. They were mating and of course the fight and the chase were everywhere. Fun to watch. Unlike human money is to buy, mating not an issue, but love is. Second stop was a dinky water fall that I was not amuse nor interest. Didn’t get off the car walking facing the cold strong win. We also drove by it. I was glad that I didn’t go. It was small look like a flood in Freestone when we have a week of heavy rain.
The third stop was getting interesting because it was on the lake where you can appreciate an open space that dictated by the strong win. The freezing cold and the cloudiness set the tone of the scenery. But when the sun shine….it was worth the trip, stunning, peaceful and dramatic. Didn’t know what a word to inscribe. The moment that I felt the true beauty of the extreme nature, I was humble. It was an unforgettable moment that will stick with me for good. The bus took us more locations that we can see the Torres del Paine in every angles. At the end of the trip we stop at the small cave. The driver made fun of me when he saw I am not moving to get off the car. So again didn’t go because the cold strong wind have just begun. Went into the center to really see what all was about. Not much to be said.
At 6:30 PM, got back to my squeaky little room, second floor, of the old ratty house. Every move I made, I could hear the squeaking sound. I didn’t sleep much that night. I also was waiting for the floor to rattle when the couple next door decided to have an accelerating breathing program on the run. Did’t hear a peep because they had left town early that night. End up with whole floor by myself. Just wondered the ghost that came along with me from Puerto Montt had something to do with it. Still indecisive if will I stay another day to do the walk around this town. Woke up in the rain and wind that did it. Came down stir and asked my host to call a bus company for a ticket to El Calafate, Argentina. Which I can cross the border at Cerro Castillo. Ya…they have a space for me. I flew out of my room in a flash show up at the bus station as a last person to get on that bus. Happy like a clam getting out of that miserable place.
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El Calafate for Perito Moreno Clacier
It took about 1 hour from Puerto Natales to reach the border. Stamped out from Chile was quick, stamped in Argentina was not pleasant because only one booth and the waiting room was small. There were 2 buses load and others. Line was long and outside with light rain, cold wind and 42 degree Fahrenheit. I stood in line for 5 minutes then said to myself f__k this. I went inside the room and stood there for a good 45 minutes until all the people were in the room. There were no finger print nor checking the bag. Proved that they are inconsistent. It must be the geographical challenge and human trafficking in this area. Continued on with another 4 hours we arrived the bus terminal in El Calafate. Got a small hotel, Flores del Sur, for $25, 2 minutes walk from the bus station. The host was very friendly and know everything about this small town. The Perito Moreno Glacier was about 90 Km from El Calafate.
There are many tours but you can buy the bus ticket to go there, it cost only $16 round trip. The bus leaved at 9 AM, we arrived at the park entrance at 10:15 AM. The entrance fee was $20 which is half of the price that paid for Terrors del Paine. First the bus took us to the Glacier. So we walked around to see the Glacier from distances for a good 30 minutes. Then got back to the bus and heading to the boat that will take us closer to the Glacier. The boat ride was 45 minutes, the ticket was $18. It was worth every minutes of it. It was my lucky day and lucky shots. The ghost had returned the flavor, I saw the felt. Immediately I prayed… Please take my misery with you, drawn it and don’t let them reappear. I have been traveling this far and I have been carrying this misery for all this time, now I am letting it goes. Please take it. The squeaking cold wind blew to my ears, I felt chill and relief. The felt must have agreed to take them.
After get off the boat, the bus took us buck to the Glacier to hang around for 2 1/2 more hours. This time the sun had come out and warm up a bit. It was so beautiful and imaged of how massive it was. The whole river turned into the blue ice, it was a magical to witness it. Took a lot of pictures and made some videos. Want to take another tour for walking on the Glacier but we have no time. Just sat on the bus howling, barking and dueling while seeing other group walked on that Glacier. shame… shame…. shame.
The bus got back to town at 5:30 PM. Walked around the town found that all American mountain gear companies have their high-end store here. The prices are higher. A lot of good restaurants are also here. Went out for a fine dinner that night priding myself before I took a marathon bus ride from El Calafate to Rio Gallegos and continue to Puerto Madryn that is 20 hours bus ride which hasn’t count the 4 hours waiting in Rio Gollegos. My poor little butt, pitiful isn’t it.
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Puerto Madryn where wildlife coexistence
It was 6 hours bus ride from El Calafate to Rio Gallegos, the Argentina Southern hub for buses and the plane. Then continued 12 hours bus ride to Puerto Madryn where all the exotic wild animals live and all the tours are operated. Two things in my mind were: to see Oscar, the killer whale, in action munching those seals, and bump the shoulder with those penguins and perhaps cocinando them too. Pet or meat, your pick, is on the go. There were a two day tours for about $100 and a sandwich for a second day lunch. We saw many of the big foot land-animals that travel back and forward along the road side. The tour was the same treatment like in Chile, no services. No water or toilet on the bus. The different was Argentinean had well organized for toilet and food vendors. Because each stop there were public toilet and some mom and pub restaurants sale the goody for a higher price. The first tour was the most southern end on the Peninsula, Punta Norte, where we could see the Oscar…. not. I had not even seen the whale poop floating nor the sea lion swim on the water. A few lied along the beach bating their way to the moon.
The myth and the gossip about the Oscars were here yesterday had subsiding. Life goes on lean to appreciate what on offer at that moment. At the parking lot, the armadillos weren’t shy or aggressive. They so used to the people. They came by for people to take pictures hopping for a reward with food. It was a moment of fun chasing them for pictures. The tour stop at the bay, Puerto Piramides, for a whale watching. I was not going to be in the open-air boat that took you out to the ocean. It cost $30 for 1 hours ride. Pneumonia and cold are waiting for me…better not. So took my wine and snack with me, sat on the shore, soaking up the sunshine while watching the whales that come close to the shore. There you go, whale watching for free.
Got bored went in the restaurant for mariscos. There my luck has continued. Order the camarones frito, it was so good. Later the young owner, who was earlier face sucking (making out) with her new boyfriend, asked me about the food. I told her loved the taste of the shrimp but the sauce need improvement. I thought she was going to be disappointed and insulted with my cocky comments. I smiled at her and handed her my chef business card. Now she was so excited and told me how much she loved Thai food. She was disappeared for 5 minutes then returned with the biggest smile. She told me that she had checked my website. Now we are talking. She had offer me another dish, baked scallop on a half shell. It was good but there were no sauce. The more you eat the more buttery you get. So I had a few. Then she came back for the review. I asked her for the lemon. Then I asked her to eat one with me. So she explains to me how she made it. When I asked her to describe the taste in her mouth while she was eating it. She looked at me puzzling. I told her what the taste was like. She was also amazed that I can detected and tells what ingredient that she used. It was easy, butter, cheese, garlic powder and paprika. I squeezed the lemon on the baked scallops. She had one and I had one while I explain to what taste was like and how much lemon can do to your dish. She was so happy that she learned something. I asked her for the bill, she refused to accept my money. She said I can’t take your money; something that I just learn was special and has not come by easily. I am welcome and honoring this chance. She smiled and gave me a hung. There it went, sometime the simple means a world to other that can bring you tear. My lucky charm had shown again.
The tour end at 5 PM. Decided to find out the mystery, I was on the street where the most human trafficking asking if anyone see Oscar yesterday. Got 2 helpers the Dutch girls, they also have the same curiosity. We must asked around 20 groups of tourist. No one had seen any Oscar in the last 5 days. My conclusion was too early for the Oscar to come or the climate change or bundled of lie form the tours agency that try to sell you a ticket.
Days two bumping shoulder with those Magellan penguins in Punta Tambo, 107 Km from Puerto Madryn. First the tour took us to Puerto Rawson, where the Navy and the fisherman are based, to see the Dolphins. Again no need to be in the boat (open air). Canceled it. Hang around on the shore looking for Camarones to eat. No Luck, there were stalls to sell fish and seafood but the government does not allow them to cook and sell cooked food on the spot. The restaurant was not open until 12 PM. We were there around 9 AM. Charming, no breakfast or coffer sine I had left the hotel since 7 AM. Managed to sweet talk to our tour guide to go the restaurant that he accounted with, to have a real coffee. He followed my trap and two others had joined us. By the time the boat had come back, I had 2 cups of coffee and still no Camarones. It was sad because this place is the prime Camarones fishing village. I see them on the display but I can’t eat them. Mad…as hell. Start to get annoy with the tour that has no services. Began to itch everywhere on my feet, want to kick somebody to let’s go of steam. What the hell is this? If it was somewhere else I would have a blast with this fresh seafood. Again small town government rule…whose dare?
The tour took us another 1 hour drive to see the elephant seals and have lunch box there. My understanding was going to be a whole bun of it. It was not. Russian river had more seals than this place. Have a lousy lunch with my own wine that I brought a long with me. Finally the tour took us to the Penguins colony. It was worth the trip that what I am here for. They were funny and not shine. It was a huge colony. Every hole on the ground was penguins incubating the eggs. Many of them come out and stretching like human do. They stood there and let you took the photo with them. The tour end at 6 PM, with a lot of picture but no taste of the penguin. The park ranger said, the penguin has a lot of parasite, stink and no meat that why we didn’t dare to eat them. I said I am a chef I can handle that. He said not a chance, they are protected here. You have to catch them in the ocean. They swim 6 months out of a year. Well perhaps next trip.
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La Boca and Tigre
From Puerto Madryn to Buenos Aires was 16 hours bus ride. Now I am officially the king of the bus rider. Stay with Bill’s friend, Felipe, for a several days. Had a chance to see La Boca where the first Italian immigrated and settled down here. It was interesting to see the use of colors how the Italian loved and knew how to use them. Of course the Tango, you could see them in every restaurant. There were tango dances while you were eating. How romantic, but too bad I ate alone. Many upscale and souvenir shops, I bought nothing. There was no space in my giant suitcase.
Have a change to see Tigre the water ways in near Buenos Aires. Almost similar to Thailand but didn’t have the floating market but it has a lot of small beautiful houses all over the places. This is the getaway place of the well-to-do get away. (The weekend houses for the upper class which I am not one of them… me…doesn’t count) Took the regular train for $0.50 to get there direct. But I just want to increase my chance to meet the rich; I took the Mitre train Line (different route from Retiro then change the train cost $3 to go to Tigre.) The investment of $3 extra was a hokey-pokey. The riches drive, only a bunch of tourists use the train. What I am thinking dah.
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San Telmo and the pride, Buenos Aires
Saturday afternoon we went out to see the Gay Pride in Downtown Buenos Aires. See many cool costumes and a parade was a chaos. They were not well organizing due to the budget and it seemed to be no one takes charge. The parade was supposed to start at 3 PM, it didn’t move until 6 PM. The theme was the same as San Francisco, the drag queens rule.
Sunday afternoon in San Telmo was fun looking for the costumes that sellers had to wear in their booths. It was fun to see young and old alike dressed up and be part of the screen. A lot of handcrafts and antiques are for bargain. Many leather goods were a bundle but no chap, leather sex toy, or used leather Items. It must be forbidden after all, this is a Catholic country; discreet items can’t be out in the public.
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Buenos Aires at last
Well as a far as this trip went I am truly enjoy meeting a lot of strangers and see a lot of unique things. Yap… I am the absolute king of the rider. I had travel roughly 7,132 miles by buses, 14,842 miles by plane and 37 miles by boat. There you go 45 days of my adventure. Missed my doggies the most. Cooked for my host party and had learned two things. One… If you married Argentinian and want to divorce them, gave them a cold meat dish a couple times. They will get rid of you in a flash. They do not eat cooked cold meat. Two…Spicy was not in their vocabulary, but the Champagnes, wines and cigarette were. Yes to me, Argentina is the Westernized Country that well maintained of its cultures and traditions in all aspects of life. It has a lot to offer and many things to explore: people, cultures, places and animals. You name it. I would say one of the fascinating country in the world. Loved it. There were total of 14 journals of this trip. Hope the contents and stories help light you up. Explore the pictures you might find things that you are looking for. Please share this blog if you see the value of it. Love life and be happy until next time…Besos……..Brazil, Japan or China… perhaps!
A suave Traveler: Paul Worakul (คุณพันธุ์)
Trip map
ARGENTINA
CHILE
URUGUAY
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